Ryo

I didn't know you made these Aaron! Sweet setup. I'd be tempted to get one but I'm not built like a bull.

For sale is a DI Optical machine gun optics: DCL-110 (Available) The DCL-110 is their latest generation red dot. This also has the dual trajectory compensation for the 7.62mm. It comes a hard case with all accessories that DI Optical provided, including a cover. It is capable of working with NVG (night vision gear) with its 11 settings for day, and 11 settings for night. Best thing about it is it has a very wide view port. Both were bought directly from DI Optical USA. I had bought multiple optics from them. (They only sell directly to dealers/LE/MIL) These optics were designed for machine guns. You see them mounted on gatling guns on helicopters to MG3 belt fed machine guns. This is serious piece of hardware. What makes these more special than other red dot optics is that these have a huge view port Here is the link to information of the optics: DCL-110: https://diopticalusa.com/?page_id=379 Prices: DCL-110: $2200 + shipping (available) DCL-110AD-3X: $2900 + shipping (SOLD Ottomatik) I accept USPS Money Order, and Zelle. Contact me for other forms of payment or trades.

Actually someone has been able to make those things run in a 22LR..

Wow.. that's some crappy work. I would have expected better from them since they sell a MG42 jig that is pretty good. Though my experience from me asking him about the jig I bought and he was responsive, but a tad unhelpful on clarification on some parts and helpful on others. Overall I'm happy with them on my jig. He modified the jig to work on a 49/52 and even stated he used this jig on 49/52. but looking at the sizing, it looks short by just a tad. Another buyer had posted about it and he too found it was short also and added a spacer to get it to the right size. Not a big deal to fix. Any case that looks like crappy work.. but reading Lewman's response, it is hard to judge. I don't think I would have left it like it is even if I was told to leave as much finish as possible, but that's me. It sounds like you both didn't understand what each other was saying or envisioning...

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Okay someone has been sending a email out to one of my potential customers posing as me, with the email JefferyKelly2002@protonmail.com. They likely was trying to sell a VZ61 22LR upper kit to them. So if you got a email from this person, they are a scammer.

There was a member on another forum that was looking for a drum greasing jig, and since I needed to grease up a few of my drums, I decided to redesign a better jig. What I'm selling is my 6th iteration before I tested it on my drums. I attached a lot of photos to ensure you know what you are going to get. Only exception is the bottom plug I don't show the latest design where I added a screw to prevent shear damage to the parts. What I like about my new design is that I have the rubber fittings are attached to the parts, hence no need to deal with loose rubber seals. The top rubber seal is recessed into the top cap. The bottom rubber seal is captured on the bottom plug. If you didn't know, new drums from places like Numrich or Kahr do not come with grease in the rotors. These rotors can not be disassembled so this tool was designed to push grease down the shaft where it disperses within the rotor. Note that my design is by far not a new concept.. many have been built by other people, but I haven't seen one of these being sold for a long while. Typically I see them made out of a pipe cap. I have tested the new design on a couple of new Taiwanese aftermarket drums I had in the closet, and it worked flawlessly. There were no leaks on the plug side or cap side. It filled the rotor up with grease, and it leaking out all the areas as expected. Turning the rotor even causes more grease leak out as it compresses within in rotor. Just note that you will have to wipe off grease a few times during use after filling. You do need to supply your own C-Clamp and a grease gun that will attach to a standard grease fitting. Both of which I believe you can buy from Harbor Freight for cheap if you don't have one. Harbor Freight C Clamp, model 37850/62139, will work with my jig. That is what I'm using in my photos. I recommend large C-clamp or a deep throat C-clamp so you don't have to disassemble the drum. I believe this C-Clamp from Harbor Freight should work, but any C Clamp that fit across the drum will work. https://www.harborfreight.com/5-inch-deep-throat-u-clamp-45916.html">https://www.harborfreight.com/5-inch-deep-throat-u-clamp-45916.html Price: $70 shipped via USPS Priority Mail I take check, money order, PayPal (Friends & Family or you pay the fee), Venmo, or Zelle. PM me on the method you wish to pay. All funds must clear before shipping. Bottom View Clamped. When properly done, the grease comes out of the small openings. Top view after greasing Bottom view after greasing

Long time ago I've had it sent back even though I placed the right stuff on the form. Looked at the F4 and there was an error.. but that is what they want.. the error. I don't agree with it.. but that is what they look for.

Both of those guys gave you solid info. Do it yourself, no need for a FFL. I do recommend when you fill out your form, pull out your original form and copy the information exactly as written for the model, length of barrel, etc. If you don't they will kick it back to you. It doesn't put you at the end of the line.. just a correction, but that adds on a couple of extra weeks of annoyance. Silencer shop form generator is really nice. I used it.

You just contact me via PM on this site. I'll message you on payment details. Thanks.

Ah the green primer that I've heard about.

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Over a $1k is what I see online for used ones. Some auctions have gone up as high as $1600.

What's the OAL of the short Romy? I'd like to capture that in my first post.

I'd look at RTG, Apex, and other places for them. They are pretty common.

I remember someone post about the saw feed ramp that you are talking about. I think it was a custom thing done. I think it was on one of the posts where we were discussing the insert.. Maybe you can ask them where they did it or maybe photos of what he has. Sucks how they do get chewed up. Those edges holding the round and causing it to pop up specific locations was where we were thinking about which the insert would help, but I'm guessing you're talking about the top side where the links are gouging the metal. Fightlite prices for parts are insane.

My feed guide might help with this issue if the plate is causing the round to pop position causing jams..

Interesting never knew of the length of the Romy. Any reason why you did it? Just a test? I'll have to look at my Romy..

I sent in a eForm 4.. Mailed in the fingerprints separate.. It's been like crickets. Looking on the eForms site shows no update or status.

I shot a fellow FFL/SOT's Glock happy switch.. not something I care to fire by hand.. but at least I can say I tried it. I did like his Sig F/A..

Anything KAC is expensive. They do make good stuff though (or at least I appreciate the KAC stuff I have). If you're going the the 5.56 and 22LR route, I'd get dedicated suppressors for them. But if you want to get one for all.. definitely get it serviceable version since 22LR has so much unburnt powder that it will clot up your suppressor.

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I'm not a expert, but the ejector would have to move if you move the ejection port. You probably already know that. Good luck on it.. If you have the skills, and the equipment, I could see this being done.

That is strange that it would lock back and stay locked back when holding down the trigger. I would have to play with mine disassembled to see how it would jam and not let you fire the next round even though your holding the trigger. My guess look at the safe/semi/auto switch to see if it engages the semi portion of the design.. see if it is loose, or your selector is not fully engaged to full auto.. Sorry I'm not an expert on Reisings. I think I taken mine apart 2 times. First time to fully clean it. Second time to make it a inertia firing pin.. Ian has a decent video taking apart a Reising.. I'd disassembly it to look for burrs, take off sharp edges, etc.

Have you disassemble and see if any broken parts? When you release the trigger do you have to pull the blot back again?