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Stainless steel black oxide


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Hello everyone. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with black oxidizing stainless steel. I have a Kimber micro .380. I ended up scratching my slide bad with the slide lock. My micro is black. I called Kimber to ask what color the slide was. I was told it's the black oxide. I found a cold oxide chemicle for Stainless Steel. Directions on the container were very generic. Supposedly just brush the oxide on and wait 1-3 min and rinse. I completely sanded the side of the slide to get rid of my mistake. 1-3 min didn't change color at all. I tried longer times with no good results. I poured the oxide into a glass container and soaked the slide. It was nothing but experiments to get the color change. After soaking, a slag formed. Had to resand and set timer to soak for 1/2 hour. I pulled it every 5 min to buff the scale. I finally got color change but it's not near as dark as the side nothing was done with. I'll post pictures. I'm hoping someone here has experience with cold oxide stainless. The scale caused some pitting and I'm guessing I'll need to reoxide again but leave it in for more than 1/2 hour. If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate it. 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IrSotIfk8Z_Z7NN4dcxRlNmQzTUsBi_d/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IpaZXtzwbPDE8xjC8arwkqak58rvYFJU/view?usp=drivesdk

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I keep hearing about that ceracote. Kimber will refinish it for $125. I got the black because it's a carry gun and black is less obvious if it shows. The cold oxide process isn't technically an oxide. It doesn't create the magnitite finish that a true temp or hot oxide does. It's just easy for home use without having all the dip stations the true temp or hot needs. I'm going to call the company Monday and let them know what's going on. I think I just need to let it soak for longer. I'm just guessing at all of this. I'm a Journeyman machinist and have done black oxide on mild steel. Stainless is a different monster. The chemical effects depend on the grade of Stainless. More chromium content will probably make it harder to oxide. I'm devoted to getting this figured out at this point. Just was hoping for that person to stumble across my questions and has the magic solution. 

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I've got a couple more ideas before sending it back. I'm kind of determined to get it right. Every time I've oxided it, I've learned something. I'm going to give it one more shot but submerge for an hour. As it is, one side looks like the normal black and the other looks two tone. It's a dual personality gun. Just like all the girls I've ever dated. I didn't send them back without trying either. Lol

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6 hours ago, Ghost Cobray said:

I keep hearing about that ceracote. Kimber will refinish it for $125. I got the black because it's a carry gun and black is less obvious if it shows. The cold oxide process isn't technically an oxide. It doesn't create the magnitite finish that a true temp or hot oxide does. It's just easy for home use without having all the dip stations the true temp or hot needs. I'm going to call the company Monday and let them know what's going on. I think I just need to let it soak for longer. I'm just guessing at all of this. I'm a Journeyman machinist and have done black oxide on mild steel. Stainless is a different monster. The chemical effects depend on the grade of Stainless. More chromium content will probably make it harder to oxide. I'm devoted to getting this figured out at this point. Just was hoping for that person to stumble across my questions and has the magic solution. 

heat will help, even though its "cold" blue

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  • 1 month later...

Are you thinking about Caswell's stainless steel oxide?  That stuff sucks big time unless you prepare everything correctly.. even then had issues (or I did a bad job prepping).

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