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NOT NFA but any gun used in it must be a registered AOW or MG. This is an original MP5K operational briefcase. This is an original german example and not one of the american internal in a german shell examples. It even has the original port plug. It is in great condition and works great. 1998 production. Unfortunately I do not have the original keys and it has a tiny chip on the top of the handle that can be fixed by someone more experienced than I am. It does not affect function and can't be seen when in hand. The last one didn't hit reserve at over $6,500 bid on gunbroker and it didnt have an original handle. The last original example sold for over $8,000 on gunbroker. I am asking $6,500 $6250 shipped or best offer. I am also open to trades as I am looking a Scar-17, FS2000, 1894CST, KP-9, 5.45 Krink/104UR, high-end bolt guns, pre-samples, no letter posties, or other NFA items. Send me what you got. 602-999-9304 Photos

I'd be afraid, sounds like a scam of some sort. I've used gb off and on for nearly 20 years and have never seen or heard of anything like that!

Inclusions in the case heads of the Yugo M-49 that have caused serious failures have appeared in nearly every year from both factories (#11 & #12) from 1951 -1965. No single year is better or worse; just luck of the draw. Sterile head stamped Yugo M-49 ammo ( just year dated) also has these defects. Some gunners have shot tens of thousands with no issues: it only takes one though. Confine these to bolt action rifles and wear eye protection. The Turkish "S" ball cartridge case was changed some time in 1944 with the web being thickened. In mid 1949, the Turkish NCS ball bullet was replaced with a GM (non magnetic) projectile. While the 50's dated Turkish employs the improved case head, I have found the case heads (1951-1955) to be quite soft, allowing for a good percentage of dropped primers from loosened pockets. IMO, our guns are simply to valuable to shoot these aging cartridges. Just my $.02

The 1941 7,9 dou sS ammo you got is completely original, not reloaded. The rust is from nitric acid coming from the decomposing powder, which then attacks the steel case and bullet jacket. The stenciling on the cartridge case is a EU requirement, as the original head stamp does not show caliber. ZDh 88 (corrosive) primed. Might work OK, but I would not buy a lot. The next box might be an entirely different year/loader. Regards, JH

All you probably need are a spare bolt or two, firing pin springs, and mainspring. As for ammo, all I've shot is pre-1940 german and czech, and while I have yugo and romy I haven't broken into the new stuff like that. Yes, stay away from the turk. I've not seen some of the others you mentioned, but if I had none, I'd start with the romy and if not available maybe try the PPU. If you see any ammo that fails to fire one round out of a bolt rifle, odds are it will never run in a 34. I have several of the armorers tool kits, and while cool, they are not necessary for the most part unless you are going to tear it way down or need to adjust your patronentrommel 34 tension, which very few of us have, and fewer adjust. Spare 34 parts are everywhere and if you did break something it's no problem finding it, and they are currently making more so there is no shortage. You're going to see tons of stories about guys switching bolts/ barrels and all kinds of other parts to get their guns going. It's not that complicated, buy good parts and good ammo and problems will be minimized. Swapping out 6 bolts/ barrel combos with bad firing pin springs and shot out barrels, crappy ammo until you find the combination that works.....and it only works that day is funny to read about, but it's very common and why the gun has lost popularity over the years to the MG42 which is indeed more user friendly. When you do get advice 80% will be from the semi 34 owners who have never had a gun that would strip the first round from a belt and fire.....ever, but they will tell you they got their guns going really well by doing........again 6 different combos of stuff. HTH