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mweitz

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Posts posted by mweitz

  1. Will shooting full auto in a full auto gun, when encountering a squib load, be enough power to cycle the action and load another round?

    I've asked this question in another forum and got good info, but I wanted ya'll's take on it.

    Traditional squib load avoidance procedures was if you 'felt' something different after pulling the trigger, don't pull the trigger again. That doesn't apply to full autos.

    I've heard S&B is good and safe, but to stick to 'subgun' ammo and avoid 'range' ammo.  What is considered 'subgun' ammo and avoid 'range' ammo?

    Should I stick with top manufactures of ammo (Federal, Winchester, etc.), or is it safe to source 'cheaper' brands (Aguila, S&B, etc.)?

    Or am I overthinking it, and there's really no risk?

  2. I have a PolyTech AKS 762 that was converted to full auto.  It looks like the conversion was done correctly.

    I read somewhere that the 'rate reducer' on AKMs was more of a safety feature, delaying the hammer by milliseconds to ensure the bolt was fully into battery.  Since mine is a Type 56 copy (I think), mine doesn't have a rate reducer.  It just relies on that auto sear that's on the bolt rail.

    Is the 'rate reducer' really a safety device?  Is my gun less safe because I don't have it?

    Thanks,
    Matthew

  3. I'm receive my first full autos.  I'm looking for any gunsmith recommendations that work on full autos.

    With my non-NFA collection, I have my local gunsmith perform a complete DCOR on each firearm every 5 years.  That way he can tell me what needs replacing, how the barrel's wearing, etc.

    I'm hoping to find a NFA gunsmith who can do the same.

    Any help is appreciated.

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