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About MG08

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    Basic Training
  1. Just noticed this string - I am a class II FFL/ SOT in MN. Been at this almost 35 years. I am north of the Metro twin cities about an hour near the WI border. Class III stuff , regular title 1 transfers. Brian 612/209-3278
  2. can you post pics of the inside of the receiver ? Looks like a lot of weld porosity behind ejection port and in the front of rear sight -
  3. Transfer Difficulty need opinion

    The biggest problem with this is the $200 cost and time added by the Transfer to your dealer first. It could have gone direct from you on a form 4 to the GA dealer, and saved one entire form 4 transfer. If the Buyer is ok with that, don't sweat it it is his problem. Unless you are left holding the pen to write the check. I would certainly letthe buyer know it is not your issue. some "dealers" are not really up on the ins and outs of the business.
  4. I think what some may be missing is that the requirement to transfer into your possession a Pre may Dealer sample is 1) current FFL - like a type 01 or type 07. 2) and to have a current SOT Pretty sure the hiccup in the C&R FFL is that BATF will not consider a type 03 C&R FFL eligible for SOT. If you drop your FFL/ SOT, an sell a Premay sample you kept after dropping your SOT ( not the FFL, the SOT) you are no longer eligible to transfer the gun on a form 3 tax free. It has to go to the next FFL/ SOT on a form 4. The forms are just tax paid or tax exempt transfer documents, no bearing on the firearm. What is says on the forms as far as "Premay" warning stamped in red or not, does not matter. Some premay guns have transferred a couple times as "transferable" and then some one is left holding the bag when BATF catches up and marks the gun as Premay on the forms. I have an M60 here that is a post sample gun, I knew it and yet the form 3 shows no restrictions stamp. I am working with My examiner and inspector to fix that one - paper is really hoed up on it.....
  5. Belt-fed Question

    Well, the bible is Dolf'sbook Grand old Lady... but it is out of print and very expensive. there is a newer book on the vickers, I got it off Amazon. If I can find it I will post it but you should be able to find it. It is better than nothin and a lot cheaper. the balloon gun you refer to is not one mounted in a balloon but used to shoot them down from aircraft. It fired a 11mm incendiary bullet. Realistically you will be looking at remanufactured transferable standard ground gun. what comes with it will make the difference- Personally I have Browning 1919s, 1917A1s, Vickers, 1910 maxims, 08s, 08/15s and a raft of other belt and strip fed guns. For ease of use and portability, the 1919A4 is probably best. the points of ammo and parts are valid, but realistically I rarely break any parts. Look at ammo cost, conversion cost, ( what cals can a gun be converted to for how much) I shoot my Vickers in 54R because I have a LOT of cheap ammo . If I had to buy the ammo today, I would probably reconsider the cost to convert it. The water cooled guns are a bit more work to take shooting. The flip side is they shoot all day as long as you keep water and ammo in them. You need t really considwr how much and where you will shoot it.
  6. biggest issue is parts. there are none in the affordable category, and then you have to design a semi system, and mfg. the guns. How many could you build ? I have not seen a complete parts set for sale in a while, so maybe 5 -10 guns and you are out of business. guess you could go ask the syrians for a conex box of MP-44s. with mags running over $500 alone, it is just not a cost effective build.
  7. Pretty sure CAGE codes were not invented until well after the Grease gun was built.....
  8. Most likely in WWII is a bout as close as you can get. the guns were made in small separated factories. You might try looking in the book by Peter Laidler on the STEN. The STEN Machine Carbine is the title I think I don't remember if the book has production data, but you might be able to ID what factory assembled the gun and make some guesses as to when it was built. This assumes the STEN is an original C&R gun and not a parts kit or "built" gun.
  9. FN 249S Barrel Question

    I have not seen a semi 249 but my understanding is the barrels are interchangeable between real ones and the semis .
  10. Retractable ball point pen "clicker" spring. I built a couple back the 90s for post sample guns, and the pen springs worked fine. Otherwise, ACE hardware has a nice selection of springs in the bulk stuff isle.
  11. Rules on creating a Stenling

    I was the one ( at least the first one we knew of ) who wrote the original letter to BATF tech branch back in the 80s to convert a Sten to Sterling - I went back and forth with them to get permission, And worked with Stan Adreweski on what the best "doable " solutions would be. I traded Stan the letter / conversion for doing the work on my tube. I still have the file. I don't know who is doing conversions now - I have not seen "new" unbuilt tubes for sale in a long time, although I am sure there are some sitting in safes out there. The issue is that when we did this, BATF would not allow us to fill and recut the receiver tubs since the bolt handle slot is different in the STEN and Sterling. Later, in the mid 90s when the Sterling parts kits were cheap, we built some post samples with new tube sections. Best bet at this point would be to buy a built STEN and use the tube .
  12. Full Auto & Squib

    You can get a squib in any ammo. That said, better quality factory ammo is a better choice than 70 year old surplus . the issue with squibs in a SMG is that the SMG will cycle enough to eject and load the next rd. I have seen a lot of barrels bulged or stuck with projectiles in them. The same rule applies - if it sounds "funny" or feels odd, OR if you don't see bullet impacts when you expect them, stop and check the gun out. under powered ammo, "no powder" loads or simply bad powder can result in problems.