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MG34 Ejector Plate


gftiv

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Blue loctite first with proper staking, if that fails red with staking.  Do you have the correct screws?  Or did someone get to it before you?   Any movement in the plate is an epic fail which is why its keyed in so well.  If the plate doesn't fit tight in the receiver to begin with, the screws and loctite will not help.  Normally I just repair the original plate because I know it fits.

HTH

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Check those screws to see if they are the right ones.  The MG34 I have had the wrong top cover screw, hence everytime I shot it, it popped out. The used a non metric screw that was too small.. and was soft metal so I even stripped it!  Most frustrating thing consider that you can't find top cover screws.  Ended up buying a wide head metric screw and threw it on a lathe and oxidized it (I'll do it right later).  Opps.. turned into a rant.  O.o  Just saying that if it gets loose too easily, then possibly it is the wrong screw.

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  • 4 months later...

Wear on the ejector plate is, in my experience, a secondary concern.  One must ensure that the rear end of the ejector is correctly beveled.  The ejector must be fitted to the individual gun.  I've seen many almost new-condition bolts (usually gunner's kit spares) that cannot be inserted in the receiver because the ejector is too long when a cartridge is pressed against the bolt face by the extractor.  These have to be stoned to the correct slope and radial angle, then polished for smooth operation so that the rear end of the ejector does not dig into the plate and cause premature wear.  It requires very close examination from the rear of the receiver with strong light to watch exactly how the parts mate on the rearward stroke of the bolt and to determine where to stone.  Dykem helps.  Even worn plates will give very satisfactory service if the ejector is properly fitted. An abrupt striking of the ejector against the plate is not required; the gun works fine with a gentler push.

M  

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