Full Auto & Squib


3 posts in this topic

Will shooting full auto in a full auto gun, when encountering a squib load, be enough power to cycle the action and load another round?

I've asked this question in another forum and got good info, but I wanted ya'll's take on it.

Traditional squib load avoidance procedures was if you 'felt' something different after pulling the trigger, don't pull the trigger again. That doesn't apply to full autos.

I've heard S&B is good and safe, but to stick to 'subgun' ammo and avoid 'range' ammo.  What is considered 'subgun' ammo and avoid 'range' ammo?

Should I stick with top manufactures of ammo (Federal, Winchester, etc.), or is it safe to source 'cheaper' brands (Aguila, S&B, etc.)?

Or am I overthinking it, and there's really no risk?

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You can get a squib in any ammo.  That said, better quality factory ammo is a better choice than 70 year old surplus .  the issue with squibs in a SMG is that the SMG will cycle enough to eject and load the next rd. I have seen a lot of barrels bulged or stuck with projectiles in them. The same rule applies - if it sounds "funny" or feels odd, OR if you don't see bullet impacts when you expect them, stop and check the gun out. under powered ammo, "no powder" loads or simply bad powder can result in problems.

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SQUIBS in my past are one of the main reasons I like the UZI so much. hell just stack em up and don't look back. I have had following squibs back in the cast bullet days . my barrel looked like one of those new amusement park rides.  same thing with my first couple AM 180 .22's once I got several projo's stuck in a full length brl and had to pull them out with a sheet metal screw welded to a rod. if its RARE or you really like it as it is , PAY CLOSE ATT TO EVERY ROUND  WHEN I WAS PLAYING AROUND WITH PISTOL CALIBER CONVERSIONS FOR THE BROWNING BELT FEDS I STUCK SEVERAL ROUNDS UNTIL I STARTED FREE BORING THE LAST FEW INCHES.

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