mike todd Posted November 8, 2018 Report Share Posted November 8, 2018 WAY back in the early 60's when the NORSE sold off all their MG-34's I bought several new in the package GOVT produced nato conversion kits. they came with a complete slide, feed block and barrel. recently I decided to break one out and give it a try . the first 2 belts were USGI WIN-69 ball and went through fine. next was LAKE CITY 76 ball and it fails EXACTLY THE SAME EVERYTIME ? the empty is backwards in the throat with the new round on top. this happens after 1 to 5 rounds but every time. I tried another belt of the win ball and the same thing. my first thought was the gun was over powered so I tried a larger orfice to slow it down. it just extracted the rnd halfway and stopped. ANYBODY OUT THERE HAVE ANY IDEA'S ? any other's using nato in one have other problems or better luck? wen all the good brass cased German WWII stuff was gone, I quit shooting the 34 and thought this might get her back on the line. cheers mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pstidan Posted November 14, 2018 Report Share Posted November 14, 2018 I'm surprised that you received no postings on this thread. I have pair of 34s and picked up a .308 conversion setup on eGhey years ago. I could never get it to work reliably. It wasn't a Norwegian kit, but an OOW setup. From what I can figure out, my problem is with the barrel. OOW didn't turn them down to the Norwegian profile and they were too heavy for reliable functioning. I did pick up a real Norwegian .308 barrel and will re-try the kit again when the weather gets a little warmer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eMGunslinger Posted November 17, 2018 Report Share Posted November 17, 2018 Your ejector length is wrong see it happen all the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pstidan Posted November 17, 2018 Report Share Posted November 17, 2018 7 hours ago, eMGunslinger said: Your ejector length is wrong see it happen all the time What is the correct length for reliable functioning? Pictures would be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cincylance Posted December 2, 2018 Report Share Posted December 2, 2018 The ejector and the ejector plate must be timed right to eject the round when the bolt is in a specific position. All the ejector plates and ejectors out there nowadays are different from varying amounts of use over the years, so there's no way to give an exact number as to the correct length of ejector. To complicate matters further, both parts have angled surfaces. The best way I've found is to 1) buy a bunch of bolts and hope there's one in the miix that works for your gun 2) replace the ejector in your current bolt with a new ejector and custom fit it 3) send your gun to someone like Bob Naess or Brian at BRP to have them fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike todd Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 LANCE , I have a LOT of time behind the 34, I have owned several since the early 60's and am well aware of all the parts swap hoping and praying. I have more than 50 as new complete 34 bolts and close to 100 MINT WWII barrels in 8mm. the problem is I have way too many MG projects going on and was trying to narrow it down a bit. I sent the gun to BOB last year and he went completely through it and did all the new springs etc and a NOS eject plate but only with 8mm parts. I am trying to save the 8mm ammo for "other" systems I have and thought the 308 would be an EASY fix. the range is 5 minutes from the vault and it still takes all day to run any kind of test function due to my illness its just getting too danged hard to "FIDDLE". the comment of a "WRONG EJECTOR LENGTH" and nothing else I am still trying to digest. longer or shorter would have helped a little bit, but who am I ? WRONG? THAT I ALREADY KNEW ! the definition of help seems to vary in certain circles these days. in any case it looks like all the 34 stuff is just going to go to market and someone else can worry with it at this point. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cincylance Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 Mike, If you have that many bolts, one or two are sure to work. An ejector that is too long will not allow the bolt to slide past the ejector plate when the bolt is inserted from the rear and the ejector is fully forward. From my experience, you want the longest bolt that will still slide past the ejector plate when inserting bolt into receiver. It should slide past without tension, but cannot leave a gap between the two parts.. Since you have an abundance of bolts, try inserting them and look for the ones with a more snug fit and take those to the range with you the next time you go. It's easy to swap out bolts to look for one that'll work. I've got about 12k rounds of experience shooting the MG34. Maybe not an expert, but my guns ran good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike todd Posted December 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2018 LANCE , PLEASE don't get me wrong, I was glad to see your post! that's the exact procedure I always use and its never let me down if the ammo was consistent in 8mm. when I installed the .308 parts I used 3 bolts and ALL 3 did the same thing. fire one rnd the stop with the empty in the throat backwards with the new round jammed on top???????? it did fire 100 rnds of WCC69 perfectly. a followup with LC-75 started the failure's . I double checked with IVI 72 , FN-72 , and izzy 69/71 all followed suit . I round then stop. I have a time lapse movie setup and it might show the problem , but I just don't have the time or physical ability to fight it. its like the ejected round is coming back too fast and "bounces" back in OR the bolt is moving too fast? in the past I never had a MG-34 gun problem the couldn't be traced fast and easy . that was with all the WWII brass cased surplus and Portugal's 8mm from the 60's and 70's. even had little trouble with steel Rom. to be honest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Maim Posted October 10, 2019 Report Share Posted October 10, 2019 Mike Todd, Were you able to get this resolved? An MG34 is next on my list, and a 308 conversion just makes sense... provided they work properly. Curious if you ever got to the root problem here. Mr.Maim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wally E Posted October 23, 2019 Report Share Posted October 23, 2019 The 308 conversion in the mg34 can be finicky, but when done right they just run. I've been doing 308/x51 conversions for a while with great results, long and short, and my personal short 34 (mg34s look) runs perfect at 950RPM. Doesn't sound like you have a belt issue by your description, but the MG3 belts are greatly preferred for feeding 308/x51. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelkih Posted November 4, 2019 Report Share Posted November 4, 2019 I use mg3 belts. My pre sample MG34 in 308 had actually been 100% reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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