jkb471

This must be the video mentioned above. The parts are shown at 2:25-3:10 in the video, Referred to as a "transfer bar". C14, 15 and 16 are an assembly. My recollection is that C16 does stick up into the track for the charging handle.

When you say you haven't shot it for years, I assume it worked ok years ago? Any chance the gas port in the barrel and gas block is fouled?

I would think a gas piston would take a ton of rounds fired to wear to the point of impeding function. Can you measure/mic the end of the piston? Any chance the recoil spring got mixed up with one from a different gun? For example, MG34 recoil springs are pretty similar length and diameter and are much stiffer.

Did you try more than one mag? There is no gas adjustment, as long as the gas plug is fully installed and not loose enough to be bleeding gas. Anything binding in the recoil system, spring is properly seated in the stock? Bolt carrier assy retracts all the way when manually operating it?

All my stuff is put away right now, so no easy access to look. Isn't that the charging handle lock?

The 1952 "45" or "L45" headstamp with the red sealant is what I fired last fall that had some hangfires, and erratic cyclic rate.

I shot a few thousand rounds of the Chinese ammo from Paragon in the late 80's. Loose stacked in wood boxes, maybe 500 round per box (?). Red sealant. Had to sort thru the rounds, as a small percentage of the cases were cracked at the neck, and there would be a few loose bullets and loose powder in the boxes when opened. I came across some in the bottom of an ammo can just last year and shot up the last of it. Maybe 150 rds. It cycles slow compared to Portuguese, and had an almost erratic cyclic rate, like some of the primers had a momentary delay to ignite.

So I didn't find a website for Northern AZ Munitions. I did find a pic of some NAM 9mm thru a google search, and the color of green paint shown in that pic appears to match the green tip kurz I have. FNM is Portuguese. But from what I have read/understand, the FNM kurz was made for FNM by PPU (the boxes say "made for" not made by or made in).

Might need to update your adobe acrobat version. I've had the same problem and have had to use my work computer (with more current software updates).

Picked up some FNM 8x33 Kurz ammo on Gunbroker. A couple of the boxes (2 out of 40) have a green X marked on the end, and the bullets in those two boxes have the tips painted green. Any ideas what these are? Not aware of FNM / PPU making or offering Kurz tracers. And no indications on the box, other than the hand marked green X.

Just read the whole "The Biden plan to end our gun violence epidemic" on his website. I wish I hadn't.

Might want to consider that assembling a complete bolt from mixed parts might not get you a great bolt assembly. Mis-matched bolt carrier and bolt head, and all the other parts might not get you a good functioning bolt assembly. That said, yes I'd try BRP for piece parts.

This is in reference to importation, but I would read that this indicates the ATF does consider a Sales Sample as C&R: 27 CFR § 479.112(d) Curio or Relic Sales Samples Generally, importers seeking to import NFA firearms that are curios or relics as sales samples must clearly establish that the curio or relic NFA firearms sought for importation are particularly suitable for use as a law enforcement weapon.

I live in a C&R only NFA State. I picked up a few C&R Listed Pre '86 Dealer Samples when I had my FFL/SOT that I've kept since I let those licenses expire. I have maintained a C&R License since, but have only transferred C&R Transferable weapons on that License. The C&R License is a collectors license, clearly defined as not a dealer license. I've never considered that a Dealer Sample would be approved for transfer to a non SOT. But if someone wants to call or write to get a ruling from NFA Branch, the worst they can do is say no...

I had a latch cover screw break years ago. Used a standard metric bolt with a fender washer as a short term temp "fix"... I had a machine shop make me one at the time, because in those days I didn't know where to find parts (other than shotgun news). Might be an option these days as it's probably cheaper and easier than finding an original. Unless originality is important (which I understand). Did you end up getting the BRP 308 conversion kit and/or try it out yet?

I have read that the newer green sealed Romanian has some issues, where the 70's Romanian with the red seal is ok/good. The only specific reference I had found to the actual problem with the "green" Romanian is that the cases are not sized correctly and can have chambering issues (????). I don't know any of that to be true. Searched again now - these are the references that I had come across previously: https://www.reddit.com/r/Mauser/comments/9f90ks/8mm_romanian_ammo/ https://forum.full30.com/t/romanian-8mm-issues/9399

Anyone know anything about early 60's Bulgarian ammo? I scanned thru the posts above and didn't see mention of it.

I've used some S&B in other calibers. Current commercial production stuff. Shot some .45 and 9mm in subguns, some 30-06 in rifles. All shot fine. Haven't tried any 8mm or other big calibers in any belt feds.

I have been looking at the BRP conversion kit too. Almost pulled the trigger this week, but do have some concern about reliability (as mentioned here and elsewhere) and also the current availability of 308/7.62 is pretty dismal. So planning on tinkering with getting it running well on better 8mm and then reconsidering trying a 308 kit. I'm thinking some years down the road, 308 will maybe be the only option. Unless the Russian Wolf/Tulammo/Bear start making 8mm.

Agreeing with the comments already made about these guns being too valuable to risk on some of the suspect old surplus ammo, I've looked into some of the other options. Looking at the ballistics on current commercial PPU 8mm - 198 gr only 2180 fps. Yikes, that is weak, matching the notes above. Anyone tried it? Is that enough muzzle energy to consistently cycle a 34?

That's what I was thinking/hoping. Thanks!

Anyone know the screw size/thread pitch for the ejector plate screws offhand? Saw a pair sell on gunbroker for $298 w/ 11 bids. Thinking I might give McMaster Carr a try...

For reference - I've watched a few orig MG34 Lafette mounts on Gunbroker over the last few months. A nice reconditioned one sold for $6700 a couple months ago. There's a 1936 green repaint listed now for $6500. A 1939 Switz with a few coats of paint didn't sell about a week ago at $4000. I haven't seen that one relisted yet.

As a data point: Tried 1953 dated Yugo a couple weeks ago in an MG34. About every 3rd or 4th round failed to fire. Solid primer strikes. Tried 3 different bolts. Ran thru about 150 rds and gave up for the day. No case ruptures, as I had read about. I had some old Chinese and Egyptian 8mm that all went bang. Planning to buy some new firing pin springs and will give it another shot...

Thanks for the reply. Just to clarify - transfer would be going from an individual or trust (does that makes a difference?) to an out of state C&R. Not transferring to a trust.