DINK

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About DINK

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  1. shrike upper insert

    Back when I got mine from Mark it was slightly loose, so I drilled a small hole in the body of it (side-to-side} and made up a spring and two brass detents that stick out under the spring tension. It hasn't moved on its own since, but it's easily removable.
  2. WTB MP40 and MP41 parts

    The MP-41 is basically an MP-28 lower grafted onto an MP-40 upper, so the screw you need is also an MP-28 screw. It isn't much help, as those parts aren't exactly plentiful, but at least you can widen your search a little. You should be able to get a simple pin fabricated easily if you can't find one.
  3. Model 1928 West Hurley Thompson, Upgraded

    Because BATF added it to the C&R list due to the limited number of them produced, which enhanced its collectability. They first did the M1s produced by Numrich (very few produced), then later added the 1928s, if I recall correctly.
  4. The model 1921 has a higher cyclic rate than the 1928 and the drum apparently needed a little more "oomph" in feeding rounds to keep up with it, so it was recommended to wind to 11 clicks for the 1921 and 9 clicks for the 1928. Original drums can range from around $500 to over $1,000, depending on rarity and condition. I will second the suggestion to check out the Thompson board at machinegunbooks.com. Those guys are Thompson fanatics and the level of knowledge there is astounding.
  5. M16 running 9mm upper, bolt question

    The 9mm AR uses an inertial-type firing pin, so it will travel forward enough to ignite the primer even though it looks like it won't. This is one of the reasons there is a firing pin spring used in the 9mm, but not in the gas-operated rifle calibers.
  6. Lakeside Razorback bolt stuck

    Punch out the two takedown pins and separate the upper and lower receivers first. At least then you don't have to worry about the possibility of a live round going off. Once they are apart, you should be able to move the bolt. Even if you can't remove the upper completely due to the recoil spring assembly, you should be able to get in there and recock the hammer, which should hopefully free things up.
  7. You're not paying $11k for the receiver- you're paying $11k for the piece of paper that says you can transfer it and own it. If that wasn't the case you could buy a brand-new one for $1200-$1300.
  8. It's not uncommon to have amnesty-registered guns with wrong or missing information on the forms. The amnesty in 1968 was poorly advertised and enacted in a hurry, so a lot of people with limited knowledge about guns were filing paperwork in haste. The way to properly correct this is to submit a letter along with the form 4 explaining the error and detailing the correct information. This should be accompanied by photos documenting your claim. They don't have to be 8x11 color glossies, but they should show the pertinent details, such as the serial number, the actual manufacturer's markings, and the barrel markings that probably led to the error. I would reluctantly consider driving the rear sight off the receiver so the manufacturer's markings are clearly visible. You should also send copies of the 4467 if possible and the form 4 that the carbine is currently owned on. With luck, BATF won't lose the whole package and the wrong information will be corrected.
  9. The tab does provide a quick and easy way to insure the first round is properly oriented on the feed tray as you close the top cover. Without one, it's pretty easy to have the round get misaligned, as the rest of the belt is tugging it to the left thanks to gravity. Maybe just take a moment to be sure the first round is aligned properly as you are closing and locking down the top cover? Just for fun, I made up some starter tabs that can be pulled right through the gun without opening the top cover so you can reload like the old days with the .30 BMG. With the bolt to the rear, stick the starter tab in from the left, tug on it until the round is on the feed tray, then pull trigger. The military went with the starter tabs that also provide a dust cover for the ammo box, but you have to open the top cover to reload. I guess that's what happens when you spend a lot of time shooting bad guys in the desert.
  10. My Shrike is the original upper that evolved into the MCR. I know there have been several minor changes to them over the years, so I really can't say. I have the original feed tray made from an M249 feed tray and I did install one of Mark Genovese's bullet guides. I generally shoot cheap (well, formerly cheap) Tula or Wolf steel-cased ammo and never even clean my links and it feeds just fine.
  11. I don't think I have ever used a tab and my Shrike loads fine on the first round.
  12. IIRC, belt loaders are going for somewhere around a grand. In excellent shape with the original box would be a couple hundred more, maybe.
  13. MP40….. bolt…..???

    Yes, you would have to use the FPB recoil assembly with the FPB bolt. A lot of guys with MP-40s picked them up to do exactly what you want them to do- preserve your original parts. The couple I picked up from IMA slid right in to my Wilson tube gun and functioned perfectly, but I suppose there's always the chance that it might not fit. Also, supposedly the recoil spring used in the FPB is a bit stronger than the original MP-40 spring, so you might have a runaway with wimpy ammo or just a higher cyclic rate. You might want to visit Wolff Springs and get a new spring set for it.
  14. MP40….. bolt…..???

    The bolt with the firing pin as part of the recoil spring assembly is the original MP-40 design. The bolt with the fixed firing pin is from the Portuguese FBP submachine gun, which was a post-war design. A lot of guys with original MP-40s put their original parts aside to preserve them and use FBP bolts instead for everyday shooting.
  15. Not a legal expert, but I believe that if there's a will, anyone named in the will is a legal heir, whether or not they are related. If there is no will, the status of heir would be determined by the laws of inheritance in that particular state. FWIW