• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Country

    United States

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About DINK

  • Rank
    Active Duty
  1. M11/9 TASK slowfire need more reduction

    The TASK conversion relies on increasing the weight of the reciprocating parts to achieve rate reductions, so increasing the weight will usually improve things. The Lage upper does the same thing, but the extra weight is inside the larger upper receiver instead of in the add-on receiver extension. Since you already have the hole drilled in your lower, you might as well work with the TASK. I had a custom buffer made out of solid brass which did a very good job of slowing things down and there are numerous very heavy buffers available for the AR-15/9 that will help you out. The old AAC rate reducer, which had a very heavy buffer in it also worked well. Since the M11/9 fires from an open bolt you don't have to worry about bolt bounce like you do with the AR15/9 so any solid buffer that is really heavy can be used- just make sure it's the correct length so the bolt doesn't travel too far and impact the rear of the receiver. A gentleman who goes by "Amphibian" has done a ton of work on slowing down and smoothing out the AR15/9 and his observations should help with the M11/9 also since the same receiver extension is used and the buffers and springs are the same. His website is www.c3junkie.com
  2. WTK - Indentify Two Mags

    They aren't big enough to be Greaser mags so they are probably PAM-2 mags that have been adapted to a more common US subgun. I have a half-dozen of them that have been adapted to the Colt AR-9mm by shaving off one side of the upper "sleeve" of steel to narrow them down. These appear to have the sleeve ground down in the front so they might be adapted for the MAC M10/9. The cut-out for the mag catch on the back would probably work with a MAC. The ones I have are very reliable in the Colt, as they are single-feed and the round goes straight into the chamber, but they are about impossible to load without a loading tool.
  3. ATF harassment

    That's one of the oldest and most common misconceptions about NFA ownership out there and it just won't go away. While it's true that BATF can drop in and inspect the inventory of a licensed dealer or manufacturer of NFA items any time they want, that absolutely does not pertain to private citizens who own them and it never has.
  4. Help Identifying some items

    The bottom picture looks like the feed unit from an HK 21.
  5. 22 Full auto questions

    I use a .223 rated can on the 180 and blow a magazine or two of .223 through it after using it with .22 rimfire. Seems to work at keeping it cleaned out, but I haven't done any rigorous testing on the procedure.
  6. 22 Full auto questions

    In my experience, the 180 will work with standard velocity ammo, which will usually stay subsonic in the standard 16" barrel. To be sure, just switch to the short 9" barrel and velocities will be reliably subsonic. You will fill up a can with lead very quickly while shooting at 1400 RPM. Some ammo is not bad for leading and some will fill the barrel in short order.
  7. What where you doing today in 1986?

    The one event that sticks in my mind is me saying "No, thank you." to an offer of an MP5 (converted 94) for $1,000. Not my finest decision.
  8. Lookin for advice ,Shrike,Ares, MCR

    The Shrike/MCR spring is designed to work in a carbine-type stock, so if you want to use a full-length buffer tube, you need to use the spacer that ARES can sell you or go to a different spring. The upper needs a very powerful spring to provide sufficient energy to drive cartridges out of the links, so the average AR-15 spring won't work. Some people have had very good results with the driving spring from the MG-34, cut down to about 31 coils. If you use the ARES spacer, you just drop in the regular spring and short buffer. If you go with a different spring, you would use a full-length buffer.
  9. .223 M60 Parts - A closer look

    Thank you for the update. I hope you will swing by and keep us updated once in a while.
  10. Yep- as I said in the other thread, my checkbook is standing by. I'll happily take one of the .223 kits and one of the 7.62x39 kits, whoever is producing them.
  11. Thompson advice for new owner please!!

    Back when Thompsons (especially the West Hurley guns) weren't that expensive, some people had the drum cuts installed on their M1 receivers and there's still some of them floating around. Nowadays that is generally regarded as a very bad idea, even more so for an original GI gun, so please don't do that. It's not that difficult to take the channel off the back of a 20 or 30-round box magazine and weld it to the back of a drum magazine and this is not a new idea. There are Taiwanese-made repro drums available for very reasonable prices (SARCO just ended a sale for them for around $100 each) that work beautifully. Sacrificing a box mag for the needed channel isn't too painful, so it is practical to make drums that work on the M1 series Tommys. I would suggest you go over to http://www.machinegunboards.com/forums/index.php?showforum=3 and ask about this process here. This is a dedicated Thompson site with VERY knowledgeable people on the subject of the Thompson and I'm sure they can direct you to someone who can make the modifications to the drums or even suggest where to find them already modified. As far as the M1A1 as a whole, they are very robust mechanisms that are easy to operate and maintain. I would suggest a new recoil spring ASAP as cheap insurance, and perhaps a spare extractor or two. They like to run relatively "wet" like most WW II era guns, so give the bolt a generous coat of oil, buy a couple of cases of ball .45 ACP and have fun.
  12. What to know about mp40s

    I'll second Schmeisser Guy in that the first thing you need to resolve for yourself is whether you are a shooter or a collector. If you are a shooter, get a tube gun and go shoot the piss out of it. The MP-40 is one of the most dirt-simple mechanisms ever made and they rarely need any attention to keep running and running. If you are a collector, find an original gun and try to maintain its condition while you own it. This means you have to baby it a bit more unless you are OK with losing some value. Personally, I'm a shooter. If you want a collector's item, buy a painting and hang it on the wall. Guns are made to be shot.
  13. Issue with MAC M10 45 cal suppressor

    The original design Sionics cans only had washers in the endcap assembly, and the rest of the front end was filled with two spiral baffles. Once again, the endcap assembly just unscrews, so see if you can remove it and see what's going on in there. The "C" clip that holds everything together may have come loose or it may have broken. Either way, I would replace the whole assembly with a modern wipeless one. Wipes adversely effect your accuracy and need to be replaced on a regular basis. I did this long ago with my Sionics-type silencer and it has functioned fine with no maintenance ever since.
  14. Issue with MAC M10 45 cal suppressor

    The old Sionics-style cans used an endcap assembly that incorporates "wipes", which are plastic disks that the bullet actually forces its way through as it is fired. They were supposed to provide a superior gas seal, but are old tech and nobody used them any more. If the old plastic wipe has crumbled due to age and can actually obstruct the path of the bullet, you should not use the can until it is repaired. The endcap assembly should simply unscrew from the front and the assembly is held together with a big "c" clip. It's not difficult to disassemble and replace the wipes and you can probably also find a substitute endcap that will eliminate them and just use a more modern design. Tom Bowers offers a rebuild service for these old cans and you might want to contact him at bowersgroup.com Even more important is to check the buffer in the MAC. It's a rubber or plastic piece that cushions the impact of the bolt on the back end of the receiver and is also know for drying out and crumbling away with age. If yours is old and brittle or falling apart, DO NOT fire the gun without replacing it as you can blow the back of the receiver out.
  15. .223 M60 Parts - A closer look

    Time to resuscitate this thread. Anyone have any progress reports on either the .223 or 7.62x39 conversions? My checkbook is still ready and waiting.