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About DINK

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  1. What where you doing today in 1986?

    The one event that sticks in my mind is me saying "No, thank you." to an offer of an MP5 (converted 94) for $1,000. Not my finest decision.
  2. Lookin for advice ,Shrike,Ares, MCR

    The Shrike/MCR spring is designed to work in a carbine-type stock, so if you want to use a full-length buffer tube, you need to use the spacer that ARES can sell you or go to a different spring. The upper needs a very powerful spring to provide sufficient energy to drive cartridges out of the links, so the average AR-15 spring won't work. Some people have had very good results with the driving spring from the MG-34, cut down to about 31 coils. If you use the ARES spacer, you just drop in the regular spring and short buffer. If you go with a different spring, you would use a full-length buffer.
  3. .223 M60 Parts - A closer look

    Thank you for the update. I hope you will swing by and keep us updated once in a while.
  4. Yep- as I said in the other thread, my checkbook is standing by. I'll happily take one of the .223 kits and one of the 7.62x39 kits, whoever is producing them.
  5. Thompson advice for new owner please!!

    Back when Thompsons (especially the West Hurley guns) weren't that expensive, some people had the drum cuts installed on their M1 receivers and there's still some of them floating around. Nowadays that is generally regarded as a very bad idea, even more so for an original GI gun, so please don't do that. It's not that difficult to take the channel off the back of a 20 or 30-round box magazine and weld it to the back of a drum magazine and this is not a new idea. There are Taiwanese-made repro drums available for very reasonable prices (SARCO just ended a sale for them for around $100 each) that work beautifully. Sacrificing a box mag for the needed channel isn't too painful, so it is practical to make drums that work on the M1 series Tommys. I would suggest you go over to http://www.machinegunboards.com/forums/index.php?showforum=3 and ask about this process here. This is a dedicated Thompson site with VERY knowledgeable people on the subject of the Thompson and I'm sure they can direct you to someone who can make the modifications to the drums or even suggest where to find them already modified. As far as the M1A1 as a whole, they are very robust mechanisms that are easy to operate and maintain. I would suggest a new recoil spring ASAP as cheap insurance, and perhaps a spare extractor or two. They like to run relatively "wet" like most WW II era guns, so give the bolt a generous coat of oil, buy a couple of cases of ball .45 ACP and have fun.
  6. What to know about mp40s

    I'll second Schmeisser Guy in that the first thing you need to resolve for yourself is whether you are a shooter or a collector. If you are a shooter, get a tube gun and go shoot the piss out of it. The MP-40 is one of the most dirt-simple mechanisms ever made and they rarely need any attention to keep running and running. If you are a collector, find an original gun and try to maintain its condition while you own it. This means you have to baby it a bit more unless you are OK with losing some value. Personally, I'm a shooter. If you want a collector's item, buy a painting and hang it on the wall. Guns are made to be shot.
  7. Issue with MAC M10 45 cal suppressor

    The original design Sionics cans only had washers in the endcap assembly, and the rest of the front end was filled with two spiral baffles. Once again, the endcap assembly just unscrews, so see if you can remove it and see what's going on in there. The "C" clip that holds everything together may have come loose or it may have broken. Either way, I would replace the whole assembly with a modern wipeless one. Wipes adversely effect your accuracy and need to be replaced on a regular basis. I did this long ago with my Sionics-type silencer and it has functioned fine with no maintenance ever since.
  8. Issue with MAC M10 45 cal suppressor

    The old Sionics-style cans used an endcap assembly that incorporates "wipes", which are plastic disks that the bullet actually forces its way through as it is fired. They were supposed to provide a superior gas seal, but are old tech and nobody used them any more. If the old plastic wipe has crumbled due to age and can actually obstruct the path of the bullet, you should not use the can until it is repaired. The endcap assembly should simply unscrew from the front and the assembly is held together with a big "c" clip. It's not difficult to disassemble and replace the wipes and you can probably also find a substitute endcap that will eliminate them and just use a more modern design. Tom Bowers offers a rebuild service for these old cans and you might want to contact him at bowersgroup.com Even more important is to check the buffer in the MAC. It's a rubber or plastic piece that cushions the impact of the bolt on the back end of the receiver and is also know for drying out and crumbling away with age. If yours is old and brittle or falling apart, DO NOT fire the gun without replacing it as you can blow the back of the receiver out.
  9. .223 M60 Parts - A closer look

    Time to resuscitate this thread. Anyone have any progress reports on either the .223 or 7.62x39 conversions? My checkbook is still ready and waiting.
  10. Over on uzitalk.com there is a MAC forum which includes a thread regarding newly-made springs for the coffin mags (Suomi coffin mags 2.0). Apparently there is a drive on to make another batch of new springs for these interesting magazines and it might be worth your while to get in on it. It is very common to have problems with the last round or two (or three) in a magazine if the magazine spring(s) are weak.
  11. 7.62x39 HK 21

    For quite a few years Mike Otte of Michael's Machines has been saying that he was going to offer a 7.62x39 version of his MM 23E/21E, but so far nothing has actually been offered. I'm still hopeful, as it would be an interesting alternative to the 21E in .308 and the 23E in .223.
  12. .223 M60 Parts - A closer look

    My checkbook is standing by for when you start selling them.
  13. Lewis Gun Problems

    Yeah, I saw that a little after I posted here. Good luck with your Lewis.
  14. Lewis Gun Problems

    I can offer a few suggestions. The front end of the op rod can be a major source of gas leakage, as it gets the major blast of gas and most of the old ammo was very corrosive. If you go over to www.machinegunboards.com you will find a forum dedicated to the Lewis and Bren guns. There are a few very helpful guys there that are intimate with the Lewis who can probably help you out. The threads in the "nozzle" are for a blank firing adapter and have nothing to do with operation with regular ammo. Bob Naess at Black River Militaria in Vermont is very knowledgeable about Lewis Guns and other old time guns so if the guys over at machinegun boards can't help, he might be able to.
  15. Yugo m-49 VS romanian 8mm ?

    Mike; Is there any way to identify "good" 8mm barrels?